Synopsis
Kestrel Jenkins, founder of AWEAR World, talks fashion, style, and sustainability. From designers and entrepreneurs to farmers and factory workers, her guests all have a place in the global garment supply chain.
Episodes
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S02 Episode 97 | THE ZIRAN + XIANG YUN SHA SILK
17/01/2018 Duration: 29minIn episode 97, Kestrel welcomes Kelly Wang Shanahan, the founder of The Ziran, to the show. A Los Angeles-based label which offers a new line of luxury silks, The Ziran's mission is to weave tradition into the modern world, leading a new generation to live the Ziran way: natural, spontaneous, and free. "Fashion is important and it's not only a physical reflection of how you perceive yourself, but also how you want to be perceived. Otherwise we would walk out of the house naked every day. So, every time you put on a piece of clothing, you're making a choice and there aren't a lot of things other than eating food that you choose to do every single day." -Kelly, founder of The Ziran Throughout this episode, Kelly shares insight into the cultural history connected to xiang yun sha silk, and the extensive process behind its creation. Kestrel and Kelly also discuss the pros and cons of manufacturing in Los Angeles, and the challenges that come with building a new luxury label. The below thoughts, ideas + organiz
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S02 Episode 96 | BANGS SHOES, OPPORTUNITIES OVER THINGS + KIVA
10/01/2018 Duration: 36minIn episode 96, Kestrel welcomes Hannah Davis, the founder of BANGS shoes, to the show. A footwear company with a social mission and a partnership with Kiva, BANGS believes that "your adventure can help others find theirs". "I want to provide people opportunities vs things." -Hannah of Bangs Shoes Throughout this episode, Hannah shares more insight into her experience manufacturing abroad, and the realities about where it's possible to actually produce vulcanized shoes. In addition, she expands further on BANGS Shoes' partnership with Kiva, and the way the nonprofit allows companies like BANGS to do good while at the same time, building out their business. The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat: VF Corporation, company Hannah's business partner worked with in the past (VF Corporation houses brands like Vans, Timberland and more) Kiva, BANGS' nonprofit partner Microfinance: "the idea of giving someone a loan in small quantities" Dan Pallotta's The Way We Think About Charity Is
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S02 Episode 95 | RECESS CITY, A NEW YEAR + ETHICAL INTENTIONS
02/01/2018 Duration: 41minIn episode 94, Kestrel welcomes Anna Lisa Grieve, the co-creator of Recess City, to the show. A lifestyle and travel blog, Recess City is a project by Anna Lisa and her husband Porter. Since September 2017, they have been traveling the world, living in hotels and showcasing ethical fashion brands along the way. "People suddenly realized that their food came from somewhere and that it mattered how it was made, and I think the same thing is happening in the world of fashion now. And, people are not just looking at clothing as a thing but understanding that there is a person behind it." -Anna Lisa of Recess City Throughout this episode, Anna Lisa shares more on how she got into blogging, and how it has evolved into a business + lifestyle her her and her husband Porter. Also, Kestrel + Anna Lisa discuss the complexities when it comes to defining what "ethical fashion" means. Stay tuned for later in the show when Anna Lisa rounds up some of her favorite ethical fashion brands of the moment. The below thoughts,
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S02 Episode 94 | ZANNI, PERFORMANCE FABRIC + DESIGNING TO LAST
26/12/2017 Duration: 29minIn episode 94, Kestrel welcomes Suzanne Lewis, the founder & designer of Zanni to the show. By reinventing the classic little black dress, Zanni uses technical performance fabrics and manufactures in Los Angeles to create what they call, "dresses for whatever." "As much as people made fun of the athleisure trend when it came out, I think what we're seeing is that everyone wants to be comfortable, and people want balance. They don't want to have to have one outfit for each activity of the day - they want to have an outfit that works with them." -Suzanne Lewis, Founder & Designer of Zanni Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Suzanne discuss where performance fabrics fit into the fashion industry today. Suzanne shares what determined her fabric choice for her dresses, and more on what polyamide elastanes are comprised of. Suzanne opens up about the difficulty in finding the best feeling fabric for her dresses, and how while she wants to bring recycled poly options into her pieces down the line, she ha
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S02 Episode 93 | COYUCHI + THEIR CIRCULAR SUBSCRIPTION SERVICE
19/12/2017 Duration: 30minIn episode 93, Kestrel welcomes Eileen Mockus, the CEO of Coyuchi, and Margot Lyons, Coyuchi’s Sustainability + Production Manager to the show. A home textile company that is committed to using minimally processed organic & natural fibers, Coyuchi also has a human commitment to the hands that touch each product. "We do sense that the customer is looking for newness, and this allows them to have that newness but at the same time, gives us the ability to take that product back and do something else with it." -Eileen Mockus, CEO of Coyuchi on Coyuchi For Life Throughout this episode, Kestrel explores Coyuchi's evolving business model with Eileen and Margot. They also focus on the complexities of finding organic linen, and how Coyuchi discovered a small group of farmers in Europe who are growing organic flax, and using it as a rotational crop. Apparently, the organic flax regenerates their fields for the organic food crops that are their primary source of income. Additionally, Kestrel, Eileen and Margot
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S02 Episode 92 | THE ACCIDENTAL ICON ON FASHION, IDENTITY + PERFORMATIVE STYLE
12/12/2017 Duration: 48minIn episode 92, Kestrel welcomes Lyn Slater, the woman behind Accidental Icon, to the show. A cultural influencer, professor, model, writer, content creator and speaker, Lyn has been featured in Women’s Wear Daily, Refinery29, WhoWhatWear, and more. She shares the true story of how she got the name Accidental Icon, and how it wasn't as much of an accidental story as the press has led us to think. "She is the woman who ... does not consume garments, she lives her life in them and dresses honestly." -Lyn Slater, Accidental Icon Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Lyn discuss ideas around whether or not fashion and consumption innately have to go hand-in-hand. Lyn shares her distinct thoughts on personal style or "no style", and how she's always been interested in the connection between dressing and identity. Additionally, Lyn outlines how she has always used fashion in what she calls a "performative way" to express her identity at any given time in the world. For Lyn, she has never let her education get stagn
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S02 Episode 91 | PROUD MARY + ARTISAN MADE VS ETHICAL PRODUCTION
05/12/2017 Duration: 30minIn episode 91, Kestrel welcomes Harper Poe, the founder of Proud Mary, to the show. By partnering with global artisans to design modern goods using age-old techniques, Proud Mary grants local artisans an exponentially larger audience, while bolstering the creative industry within their communities. "People are going to keep buying clothes - that's not going to slow down, I don't think ... I think it's hard from a marketing point of view when both of those things are lumped together because artisan made and factory production are two very different things." -Harper Poe, founder of Proud Mary Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Harper discuss the evolution of Proud Mary, and the newest direction Harper has taken the company in shifting to a direct-to-consumer model. They also explore the intricate differences between artisan made and ethical factory production, especially when it comes to whether or not this is something shoppers are paying close attention to. The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were b
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S02 Episode 90 | COTOPAXI, LLAMA WOOL + QUESTIVAL
29/11/2017 Duration: 33minIn episode 90, Kestrel welcomes Davis Smith, the CEO and founder of Cotopaxi to the show. A brand that creates innovative outdoor products and experiences, Cotopaxi works to fund sustainable poverty relief, move people to do good, and inspire adventure. "Originally I think ... it was the grantmaking ... where we were going to have our impact, but as we've started to put together these impact reports, I'm seeing that a lot of the impact that we're having is actually through our purchasing power, it's through our supply chain. " -Davis Smith, founder + CEO of Cotopaxi Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Davis discuss Cotopaxi's business model, and Davis shares more on his intention with the company to use business to alleviate poverty - through what they like to call "holistic development". Davis also shares more on how Cotopaxi has built partnerships with llama farmers in Bolivia, and how they use llama wool as insulation in some of their jackets (instead of down or some kind of synthetic insulation). The b
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S02 Episode 89 | FARMGIRL FLOWERS + DIRT ON THE FLORAL INDUSTRY
22/11/2017 Duration: 39minIn episode 89, Kestrel welcomes Christina Stembel, the founder of Farmgirl Flowers, to the show. An online floral shop that is dedicated to creating good jobs, Farmgirl Flowers is also focused on maintaining a sustainable supply chain, and minimizing waste in the floral industry. "INSTEAD OF HAVING 40-60% WASTE OF FLOWERS, WE HAVE LESS THAN 1% WASTE." -CHRISTINA, FOUNDER OF FARMGIRL FLOWERS Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Christina chat about the complicated supply chain behind the floral industry, and the impact it has on farmers, and the environment - especially when it comes to waste. The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat: 40% of cut flowers are thrown away in the U.S. because the shops can't sell them before they die. Flower shops must up-charge their bouquets in order to compensate for the flowers that are expected to be wasted. Ritual Roasters, first place Christina sourced burlap coffee bags from for their flower wraps. Christina took inspiration from In-N-Out B
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S02 Episode 88 | TARA + THE ERA OF CUSTOMIZATION
14/11/2017 Duration: 33minIn episode 88, Kestrel welcomes Annette Lasala Spillane, the founder and CEO of TARA (The Artisan Row Accessories), to the show. Known for their buildable fine jewelry, TARA intentionally designs each piece so it stands beautifully on its own, but can also be stylishly interchanged with with other pieces in their collection. Throughout this episode, Kestrel and Annette chat about the era of customization, whether it's here to stay, and in what capacity. They also discuss individual ideas of personal style, and innovative ways to make the clothes in your closet go a long way. The below thoughts, ideas + organizations were brought up in this chat: Will Mass Customization Work For Fashion? -via Business of Fashion “I don’t think that complete free-for-all, white canvas customisation works. What works is certain parameters that a designer has left for the consumer. It’s potentially 10 or 20 percent designed by the customer, enough that it feels individual, without tampering with the creative direction of the b
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S02 Episode 87 | PHLUR + REIMAGINING FRAGRANCE
06/11/2017 Duration: 47minIn episode 87, Kestrel welcomes Eric Korman, the CEO and Founder of PHLUR, an Austin-based startup that is the first all-digital fragrance company. With PHLUR, customers get an immersive online experience where they can view images, playlists and horoscope-like descriptions to choose their fragrance style without actually having to smell it first. Apparently, it's scientifically proven that humans smell first with their eyes. "One thing that's kind of crazy about the fragrance category is that brands aren't legally required to disclose what they put in the bottle." -Eric, CEO of PHLUR Eric shares insight into the psychology of scent, and how these concepts drove his framework for building his company. The second you spray fragrance on your body, the scent begins to evolve because your body is a little heater. Dr. Rachel Herz, expert on the psychology of scent Anne Serrano McClain, helps develop PHLUR's scents IUCN Red List, list of endangered + threatened plant species, which are all prohibited from being
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S02 Episode 86 | RECONSIDERED + DRIVING POSITIVE BEHAVIOR CHANGE
31/10/2017 Duration: 33minIn episode 86, Kestrel welcomes Jessica Marati Radparvar, the founder of Reconsidered, to the show. A boutique consultancy that helps organizations build impactful social responsibility strategies, communications and community, Reconsidered is all about driving positive behavior change. "Reconsidering and just taking a second look at things that we've always taken for granted is something that's so needed in this day-in-age, because business as usual is not an option - it simply isn't." -Jessica of Reconsidered Throughout this chat, Jessica shares stories about her path, and how she has found herself enthralled with the social impact conversation, and especially, innovative approaches to shifting behavior. She shares her thoughts on where we are today when it comes to telling the sustainable fashion story, and where she thinks we can improve moving forward. Sign up for Jessica's bomb bi-weekly newsletter that features thought-provoking content on corporate responsibility, sustainability and social impact. He
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S02 Episode 85 | THE GOOD TRADE + SOCIAL GOOD
25/10/2017 Duration: 31minIn episode 85, Kestrel welcomes AmyAnn Cadwell, the Cofounder & Editor-in-Chief of The Good Trade, to the show. A digital media company featuring brands, products & ideas dedicated to social good, The Good Trade is known for its elevated aesthetics and accessible writing style. "We're all on different places on the spectrum, and our goal is to really come meet people where ever they are with maybe that next step or that helpful story or that helpful point of action that kind of meets them right where they are." -AmyAnn, cofounder of The Good Trade Throughout this chat, AmyAnn shares her interesting path into the conscious fashion and lifestyle world. She also shares her thoughts on what social good means to her, and how she's building it into the framework of The Good Trade. Also, AmyAnn shares insight into creating a platform with aesthetics in mind, and the importance she and her team place on visuals within their storytelling. Here are a few of the things brought up throughout this chat: What It
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S02 Episode 84 | SALT GYPSY + SUSTAINABILITY IN SURF CULTURE
17/10/2017 Duration: 34minIn episode 84, Kestrel welcomes Danny Clayton, the founder of Salt Gypsy, to the show. A Byron Bay-based curated surf boutique and independent surf lifestyle supplier, Salt Gypsy celebrates female surf athleticism, diversity and style in the lineup. "If I as a small business can source and produce gear using a lycra that's made with 78% recycled polyamide, then why are not mainstream brands or bigger businesses using that as well; why is it not industry standard?" Throughout this conversation, Danny shares the backstory of how Salt Gypsy evolved into a brand that offers iconic surf leggings as well as surf gear for the discerning woman of the ocean. For Danny, she spends a lot of time in the water, so she wanted to create something that could protect her skin from the sun, but also help her look cool in the lineup. Additionally, Kestrel and Danny discuss the (un)sustainability of the traditional surf industry. From the foam and resin in the making of the boards to the surf wax, there’s a lot of petroleum tha
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S02 Episode 83 | NAADAM + "THE WORLD'S FAIREST CASHMERE"
10/10/2017 Duration: 31minIn episode 83, Kestrel welcomes Matt Scanlan, the CEO and cofounder of Naadam, to the show. Naadam is a fashion label that responsibly sources and produces luxury knitwear while preserving nomadic lifestyles in Mongolia. "It's all about an equitable agreement where they're [nomadic herders] getting something and we're getting something; we get better material, they get a level of economic sustainability that didn't exist before." In this chat, Matt shares the wild story of how he and his cofounder ended up finding themselves literally in the world of cashmere, through the friendships they made with nomadic herders in Mongolia. He also walks us through why the traditional cashmere industry had been rigged in the past. A couple of notes from the chat: Naadam doesn't have any contracts with the nomadic herders they work with; instead out in the countryside, as Matt explains, "what matters is the respect, the honor, the trust, the loyalty - that's how you build the relationships" Hand combing is a humane and tr
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S02 Episode 82 | PROJECT JUST SEAL OF APPROVAL + RIZ BOARDSHORTS
03/10/2017 Duration: 34minIn episode 82, Kestrel welcomes two guests to the show: the Chief Operating Officer at Project Just Jacinta Fitzgerald, and Riz Smith, the founder and creative director of the London-based swimwear label Riz. Recently, Riz was awarded a Project Just Seal of Approval for their swimwear category. Kestrel had the opportunity to sit on the committee to help make this decision, which led her to bring both Jacinta and Riz on to talk about Project Just's Seal of Approval process. In this chat, Kestrel gets the chance to ask Jacinta her thoughts on what the committee loved about Riz, as well as some of the areas they think Riz could work on to enhance his brand. Riz shares his thoughts on the Project Just Seal of Approval process, and reveals how open he is to constructive criticism. Here are some of the ideas, topics or thoughts that came up throughout the conversation: Project Just Seal Of Approval Categories "Refined Flamboyancy": how Riz describes his sense of style Rizcycling Program _________________________
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S02 Episode 81 | ACCOMPANY + FUSING AESTHETICS WITH ETHICS
26/09/2017 Duration: 49minIn episode 81, Kestrel welcomes Accompany founder & CEO Jason Keehn, and VP of Special Projects at Accompany, Kara Gerson, to the show. Accompany is a fashion online marketplace supporting developing communities around the world. "There is such an overwhelming amount of choice for the consumer that having an editorial point of view on what's out there and bringing it all together in one place makes it feel more inspiring and emotional, as well as just more convenient." Jason and Kara share their past experiences in fashion, and how they both saw an opening in the market for a platform that brings together styles that have more meaningful stories behind them. They also share more about their recent collaboration with Target. Below are some of the ideas, initiatives and concepts that Jason + Kara brought up in this chat: Experiential Retail Accompany Us To Target Partnership Nest: a nonprofit committed to the social and economic advancement of global artisans and homeworkers through supply chain transparen
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S02 Episode 80 | HELSINKI FASHION WEEK
20/09/2017 Duration: 39minIn episode 80, Kestrel welcomes Evelyn Mora, the founder of Helsinki Fashion Week to the show. An event where international and nordic fashion meet in Finland, Helsinki Fashion Week also focuses on sustainable production and an ecological mindset. Evelyn believes that fashion, style and individualism really are trending at the moment, and will continue to do so. Below are some of the ideas, initiatives and concepts that Evelyn brought up in this chat: Infinited Fiber Company Tanya Solovey, Vogue Ukraine Finnish Environmental Institute Amos Anderson Museum, venue for 2017 Helsinki Fashion Week Uneins, brand by a German-born Finnish-based designer August, an Estonian brand Mem by Paola Malleus Makia, Helsinki-based sustainable fashion brand "Multi-local": person who is a local in more than one place ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ SUPPORT CONSCIOUS CHATTER Want to help support this conversation? I big-time appreciate it! Here ar
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S02 Episode 79 | AGNES MULJADI, THE VEGAN BALLERINA
12/09/2017 Duration: 30minIn episode 79, Kestrel welcomes Agnes Muljadi, a Los Angeles based vegan ballerina, actress, photographer and celebrity blogger, to the show. Agnes has been the face of an array of brands including Amazon, NFL, Starbucks, Reebok, Toms Shoes and Kind Snacks. "MY NATUROPATH TOLD ME IMMEDIATELY YOU HAVE TO BECOME VEGAN TODAY, AND I JUST BECAME VEGAN. I LITERALLY BECAME VEGAN IN A DAY." -AGNES MULJADI In this chat, Agnes shares insight into what her life as a ballerina looks like, and how she became vegan, basically overnight. Kestrel also asks Agnes about her position as a social media influencer. As influencers continue to take more of a headlining role for brands and their marketing platforms, Kestrel is always curious about where and when authenticity will rise to the top. If an influencer promotes a food product, and never actually eats it, can we tell that? If they push a pair of shoes that they would never actually want to wear, are we going to be able to realize that, as outside followers? AND, if an i
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S02 Episode 78 | PATAGONIA'S WORN WEAR + MAKING MENDING MAINSTREAM
06/09/2017 Duration: 37minIn episode 78, Kestrel welcomes Nellie Cohen, the Worn Wear Program Manager at Patagonia, to the show. Patagonia's Worn Wear program aims to reduce environmental impacts by encouraging people to change their relationship to stuff, through repair and reuse of what they already have, and by celebrating quality and durability. Patagonia's largest repair center is in Reno, Nevada, and they did 50,000 repairs there in 2016. Nellie shares some of the history on Worn Wear, and how it evolved from Patagonia's earlier roots with Common Threads. It's a pretty cool story how Worn Wear originated from a blog that Patagonia surf ambassador Chris Malloy and his wife Lauren had started separately. Nellie also elaborates on the scale of Patagonia's Worn Wear, and the number of employees that are dedicated to mending and building out the company's program. For Nellie, celebrating the stories behind the pieces we wear is huge - she's especially a fan of the family heirloom stories that can be attached to Patagonia's past sty